A Calm trip, on one of those sunny Sundays of September, to get to know better what South-west Pelion has to offer.
The length of the road to Trikeri, which is the southernmost point of the Pelion Peninsula, is about 65 km, which in terms of travel time translates into two hours without stops. But in practice, the stops are the magical part , and it is my recommendation for a leisurely and relaxed day trip.
We left Our beach house early in the morning from the small village of Kato Gadza and stopped to take coffee and pastries at the village bakery. 2 cups of parfait (with some milk and some sugar, percolo) accompanied by, as usual, 2 bottles of water, and 2 fresh and warm cheese spinach pastries at a ridiculous price that returns a surplus of 5 euros, and we are arranged with breakfast.
(In the photo, Spancopita from another bakery, and no less fine)
Driving south on the E34 Volos- Neochoriou road, which separates from the coast just before the village of Afissos and begins to climb the western slopes of Mount Pelion. The road passes between olive groves and a natural forest and a little after Afetes the road continues on its way to the left and we drive towards Argalasti. Argalasti is a central authentic village on the route to the southwest of the island and also to the southeast towards the spectacular beaches Potistika and Melani and to Katigiorgis from where you can take a Taxi-boat to Skiathos island. You can buy groceries and food for the rest of the day in the village and make a stop to refresh yourself, but we pass through the village without stopping, and continue on the winding road to the south.
Our first stop: Chorto (note, not to be confused with Chorefto in the northeast of the eastern side).
Chorto is a quiet and sleepy little village on the coast of the Pegasiticos Gulf, that is mainly populated in the summer by tourists looking for a typical Greek vacation, and is quite deserted during the rest of the year. In the village there are several taverns and simple accommodations, which in light of the winning location right on the beach, combined with an endless panoramic sea view and an attractive price - it is difficult to get a place to stay there in the season.
View from the window..
In the village runs a small water canal flowing towards the sea, on which motor boats are placed at the entrances of their owners' houses, in a way that gives the street a unique, atypical, but photogenic appearance.
Second stop at Milinia. Milinia is a magical village, on the sea, which enjoys a tiny and private island right next to the beach that creates a small lagoon and calms the already calm waters a little more. If you are with children, and even if not, you should rent a kayak at the small boat dock next to the coffee shop and row from there to the horizon - to conquer Alatas the lonely island!!
There is another variety of sailing vessels with pedals, motor or oars for rent. There is a small tourist boat that sails every day in the summer season to the southern village of Trikeri and back, and there is Nikos. Nikos is the owner and skipper of the tourist boats Saloufa Tours which take out fishing trips in the bay and cruises to Trikeri. Nikos is a fisherman, a colorful and smiling sailor, speaks good English, who openly tells us of his 4 children between the ages of 20 and 1, from 3 different women, not all of them Greek. He makes a living from fishing, tourism and on Thursdays he plays and sings for a living in the doorway of his boat together with his big and beautiful daughter. Nikos offers an experiential cruise that includes fishing and cooking a meal from the fish caught, on the boat. If you wish to go to a tour its better to coordinate in advance, details here https://www.facebook.com/saloufatours/.
check for our day trip with Nikos-Saloufa here: https://www.gatzeasways.com/post/יום-בים-עם-סירת-דייג-קטנה-דרום-מערב-פיליון
From there it's a 10 km drive to one of the most beautiful and famous spots in Pelion- Tzasteni.
It is a beautiful bay bordered by a narrow headland in the ever-calm waters, on which lies a row of white houses with blue shutters and orange roof tiles that create a wonderful reflection in the clear water. The small island has the shade of olive trees, and steps down to the sea as if it were a private swimming pool, and different seating areas that you can move between depending on the direction of the sun and the wind. Someone, once upon a time, built himself a house, a small plot of heaven, with a blue sea on all sides, and a high black fence with a no entry sign for strangers behind it.
The small bathing beach is always full of bathers swimming in the sea for pleasure peering curiously at the residents of the White House, which are peering back at them. in harmony.
On the way along the road we notice to some coves with crystal clear turquoise water, inviting and tempting to go in and dip in their pleasant waters, but we held back until we reached the cove just after Tzasteni, an irresistible place. It is a magical bay, surrounded by a natural grove and olive trees that provide some shade (and it is still recommended to bring an umbrella and chairs), which is a popular spot for locals and travelers coming from the land and the sea.
Most likely, boats and yachts with bathers, who cruise mainly on the weekends in Pegasiticos Gulf, will be moored there, stopping in bays of this type along the way (and also in such bays, hidden from view, which can only be reached from the sea) and the lagoon will be bustling and bustling with the right sound of a real Greek vacation.
We continued on and marked us along the way other worthwhile points that we will stop at next time, for example Panagia Beach, or these:
Don't expect to see signs pointing to any bathing beach on the way, but you will recognize them easily during the drive when you will see groups of cars parked on the side of the road, as if nowhere..
By the way, the most worthwhile beaches in Pelion are not those that the general public knows, such as Milopotamos beach which is indeed an amazingly beautiful beach, but secret beaches that the locals keep to themselves, and are not marked on any map or in any guide. There are many of them and it's worth going out to find out!
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We had a late lunch at Trikeri. Not necessarily because of the food but because of the location. This is a maddening rest from a day of travel, and a short easy rest before the journey back home. The village of Trikeri is the southernmost village in Pelion and is located at the entrance of Pegasiticos Bay. Through this single opening warships and merchantmen passed in ancient times, and brave sailors in search of mythological adventures left through it to the port of Piraeus and old Corinthia. To this day, Volos is a very active port and it is reached by cargo ships, excursions and cruises.
Three fish and seafood restaurants await us next to each other on the dark blue water line, boasting a stunning view of the bay and the mountains that enclose it.
We arrived with a recommendation for Manolas Tavern, and a pasta dish with jumbo shrimp, which we actually saw on all the tables of the locals around us. The food was fresh and delicious, but the air and atmosphere are the whole story.
A luxurious yacht is anchored right next to us next to the restaurant, from which a whole family disembarks, parents, children and even the grandmother, and next to it is parked a luxury motorboat of groups of young guys who have come all the way here for the excellent seafood. Greek music in the background, the tables are full of diners having a long conversation in Greek and not hurrying anywhere, the sound of the waves is getting stronger, the wind is starting to pick up a little in the late afternoon, and Manoles arrives at the position with another fish to be clean before it goes on the grill and from there to the plate. At that point the seagulls already realize that they will soon win as well, and have a good meal from the bucket.
After eating it's hard to get up, but we put on some good music and start the way back home, already planning when we can return to this wonderful beach strip to get to know more and taste more of its secrets.
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For questions, requests, and comments :
for booking a stay at our beach house, Airbnb page: https://www.gatzeasways.com